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Most of the clubs charge a small cover (around per person) after 10pm or 11pm, but look for flyers or free-admission coupons in local events magazines. 599/543-6828), is a favorite place to kick back and even take a dip in the sea during the day; it turns into Daniel's by the Sea at night. 599/543-6040) is the Oyster Bay Beach Resort's beachfront bar, which offers tropical drinks, music, and food, and nightly cabarets starring local calypso King Beau Beau.Beach Bars & Shacks For many people, the best hangs on the island are those barefoot beach shacks right on the beach, where you can sit under a palm tree or a shady awning, listening to music, sipping a drink, and dining on fresh grilled fish or ribs. French Side -- At Baie Rouge (Red Beach) you have two beach bars to sample: Gus' (no phone) and Chez Raymond (tel. The latter cooks up blistering barbecue and delivers a knockout punch with Raymond's Special, a blend of six rums; hear reggae on weekends.599/542-2978), known to the locals as the "Japanese club." It was founded in the 1940s to service Japanese tuna fishermen who'd been to sea for months at a time.These single men needed a place to carouse, and the government didn't want them hassling local girls, so a tradition was born.

The action usually starts at 10pm (though the beachfront discos throw afternoon theme parties).It's been said that the French/Dutch border was established by an 18th-century drinking contest. Or maybe it just seems that way, given the myriad sunset booze cruises to toast the elusive green flash (no, not a superhero but an atmospheric phenomenon caused by prismatic refraction of the sun's rays). Martin arguably contains more bars per capita than any other Caribbean island.Some, like the Sunset Bar, have gone on to semi-fame (or semi-notoriety), but others have remained blessedly low-tech and laidback. On Baie Nettlé (Nettle Bay), Laurent Maudert's Ma Ti Beach Bar (tel. 590/51-00-93) are lively beach bars with French and Creole specialties, respectively.On isolated Anse des Pères (Friar's Bay Beach), Friar's Bay Beach Café (no phone) sells Laurent's sublime stuffed mussels. 590/49-06-81), a thatched bamboo hut splashed in Rasta colors, where Kali serves some of the island's best barbecue.

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